Poker 7 Card Stud (Hi) Training Advice (series)

Lesson #1 - Beginners Guide to “7 Card Stud” (Hi) - by Al Spath

some of the lesser popular card games might be the easiest to secure a bracelet at the wsop as players have flocked to NL and other games. also you need this information for HORSE.

In Stud, it’s all about LIVE CARDS – yours, and your opponents. Unlike hold em’ with a community flop that everyone sees and uses, stud requires each player to observe the board, beginning on 3rd street (everyone’s first up card). Not only do you analyze what you see exposed on the entire board (more on that a bit later), this is the juncture where the most critical decision a player will encounter: to continue play, or to fold.

Stud is also a game about people and their tendencies and knowing all you can about them to empower you to use the best strategy against them. You study your opponent as you do the game, you will determine what KIND of PLAYER they are, by watching to see WHAT cards they start with, WHAT cards they CALL with, WHAT cards they RAISE with, and WHAT cards they SHOW DOWN with.

Let’s now look a little deeper at what I mean by “Live Cards” which are exactly what the term implies. They are how many cards YOU need to help your hand improve, that are not revealed on the board. For instance: If you have 3 spades and as you look around the board you noticed that 3 other spades were showing as the first card up in your opponents’ hands, then you know that you will need to catch 2 of only 7 spades that have not been exposed to complete your flush. Note: Some of these cards may possibly be located as their hole cards, making the flush draw extremely unlikely. Or if you have a pair of kings, and see one other king exposed on 3rd street, you quickly realize there is only one remaining king left to help your hand. Note: You also should watch the person with the other king exposed and if they call or raise, they might indeed have both kings, leaving you with a draw for a card that can’t be found in the remaining deck.
This is also why you need to study your opponents and find out if they slow-play, check-raise, bluff often or draw continuously. Knowing who is a solid player and who bets on just a prayer is important information for betting rounds later in the hand. It’s important to know if when they raise with an ace on 3rd, they have split aces (one up, one concealed), or are they betting to make you believe they have aces and that you are already behind in the hand? You also look to see the types of cards your opponents are willing to start with. If they stay in the hand with a “4” as their up card, one could surmise that they possibly have a hidden pocket pair, a split pair of 4’s, or three to a flush/straight. Watching and seeing their cards at showdown is important for you to determine what their mindset is in regards to their starting hand requirements so you can exploit it when the opportunity arises
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So you might ask, how on earth do I remember all the exposed cards? Well, you don’t. All the exposed cards are still on the table with the players in the hand, so all you have to do is remember what cards are folded. Generally three or four players remain in the hand, so only about 4 or 5 cards are folded and put into the muck during the first betting round. As more betting ensues and cards are received, a few other players with two or more cards exposed will also fold and by this time you will probably have their cards imprinted on your brain “IF” you have been watching the deal and have observed each card dealt face up. It’s all right in front of you, and you must watch everyone’s hand to have all the information available to you.

More about third-street and what else should you know before sitting down to play stud at the lower limits?
- In hold em’ you have a forced bet (the blinds) and in stud you may have antes. The antes will increase as you play higher limits. Typically a 2/4 table requires and ante of $ .50. A 3/6 table increases the ante to $1.00. However, it is not uncommon that the ante at a 4/8 table to also be $1.00, making the 4/8 a better value than the 3/6 game. More on that in latter lessons. The higher the ante will give you an opportunity to reap a higher reward if you are successful with an ante steal on 3rd street. On-line, as well as in live casinos, the antes can vary from site to site, or casino to casino. Some on-line sites have no ante in the lower limit games, however, with any stud game, the low card exposed (on the first round of betting-3rd street), must be the first person to bet. They can bet the required amount at that table, or they can complete the bet (in effect, raise the pot). Example: you are at a 2/4-limit stud table and the antes are $.50 and you get the 2 of clubs as your first card showing (the lowest ranking card by suit), you are now forced to bet (called the bring-in). You are not allowed to fold and must “bring it in” for the minimum bet. You can however, “bring it in” for anything between the minimum and the maximum and force others wanting to play the hand to pay a steeper price from the outset. When you would do this is up to you, but I would recommend doing it when you have a big pair or medium pair, either concealed or split. Some players would argue, and I would agree, that if you do have a big pair, you might not want to advertise it just yet; so betting the minimum is appropriate. The only time I would not do that with a big pair is when others in the hand have higher cards exposed on 3rd street. In that case, I want to complete the bet and try to force out the ones who have yet to make a big pair.

- You will notice that most players who will raise (in lower to medium limit games) actually have what they are representing, and usually is a big pair. Those with 3-straights or 3-flushes generally will just call so they get the proper odds to continue their draw. Should a player raise with an ace showing in his hand and in the hand of another player at the table, expect them to actually have a split pair of aces and they are just raising to protect their hand that has little chance of catching a third ace. Any player that limps into a pot, is then raised, and then re-raises the pot, is giving you an indication that they have a big hand. You can count on it most likely to be a huge pair and they might even be “rolled up” (both hold cards match the first up card, giving them a set).
- When comparing split pairs to concealed pairs, there is no debate. The concealed pair is the ultimate weapon in stud. The surprise factor of having a pocket pair enables you to make a set undetected. If you have split aces (one ace showing) and bet, and then get another ace on 4th street or 5th street, your opponents may immediately fold facing the trip aces you are advertising. On the other hand, when you have concealed kings and on 4th street or 5th street you get a king dealt to you, and you raise, they may only put you on a pair of kings or two pair (kings up), and not be aware of your monster hand.
- If you are not stealing antes you will need to win many more pots to compensate for your constant posting of the ante. Normally you would try to steal an ante from late position having seen no other voluntary bettor enter the pot. Your up card should be higher than the up card of the remaining few players. If you are raised and you don’t have a decent hand at all, let the raiser have the pot and save additional bets.

In lesson two I will discuss in detail starting hands on third-street and how this decision can determine if you have a realistic chance of winning the hand. If you have never read Roy West's 42 lessons 7 card stud, your missing the best book out there to get you winning at stud or HORSE (you need stud work you know).

 

Lesson # 2 - Starting Hands (Third Street) 7 Card Stud (Hi)

Part 1

In lesson one, I began a discussion on a few things you needed to know about third street (antes, the bring-in, some starting hand requirements, split and pocket pairs, being rolled up and ante stealing), and in part one of this lesson I want to discuss various starting hands you will encounter on third street, and why/when and how you should play them.

Let’s start out with the best hands you could possibly have when playing 7-card stud (hi):

Three-of-a-kind: This hand will not show up as your first three cards that often, however, when they do, you have a 2:1 chance to fill up. The first question you should ask is: “Now that I have them, how should I play them?” Well, I believe if you are playing at the low and medium table limits, you should play the small trips very fast and the higher trips (Js – As), very slow. The reason is pretty straightforward: let’s assume you start with 66 6 and I start with A8 8 and you decide to slow play your rolled up cards. If I catch another 8 along the way, you have suddenly in the precarious position of second best. Your bags have been moved from the Penthouse to the Outhouse. Your set is now a huge underdog in this hand. Even if you fill up, it may not be good enough to win. My set of 8's can fill up just as easily. And if my set of 8's is hidden (pocket 8's and an upcard), I can continue to let you lead at the pot and lower the hammer on 6th or 7th street. So it is easy to see why it is very important that when you start out with a small set rolled up, you have to pound the pot to drive away as many players as you can. Seven card stud is a game of chasers, but you must make them pay as much at the toll booth as possible for their journey.

On the other hand, when you start out with a high set rolled up (J-A), you
welcome my 88 A, and froth at the mouth at the possibility that I might catch
another 8 or an A. You have me trapped and still have a great possibility to
fill up. So in this case a slow play is the way to go. There is an additional
exposure to flush and straight draws when you slow play, but when you make your
full house (remember 2-1 in your favor), you want everybody at the table to make
a flush or a straight. So, to summarize, play your small to medium rolled up
sets fast and hard, and play your large rolled up sets slow and easy. Over time
this strategy will make your trip to the cashier a very pleasant experience.
What if the pot is raised before it gets to you?

It may even be reraised before it gets to you. In these particular situations you have to consider whether you want to announce your strength or sit back and let others do your dirty work. One important factor here is whether the game is loose or tight. Remember, if you appear to be fearless in a tight game, players will exit your pot, while in a loose game, they will overlook your play as just another loose bet at the table. So, tend to raise less in tight games and fire away at loose action tables.
High Pairs: I categorize high pairs as being J’s or better for beginners (as you gain experience you will want to add 10’s to this list). Hidden pocket pairs are much more desired over split pairs for the sheer surprise factor when you do hit your matching card on any street, or sha-zam, when it comes face down on the river! Note: That’s why 4-of-a-kind can go undetected in stud, while with straight flush or royal flush, two cards of the 5 cards needed to make the big hand will be on the table, face-up.

Your high pair is a significant favorite against lower pairs and a single straight or flush draw, but not against a table full of drawing players (then you become an underdog). To protect against this from occurring, you must raise with your big pair and thin the field immediately. The only time you might want to use a bit more caution is when you have a high pair, and with players yet to act having overcard(s) face-up on 3rd street that are higher than your pair. They may indeed have a split pair higher than you. If in fact they raise your bet, I suggest you continue in the hand only if your pair is hidden (pocket pair), your other 2 matching cards are fully LIVE, and your kicker (is higher than the raisers 3rd street card (also known as the doorcard)! Otherwise, you should save yourself a few bets and just fold early. If only one player behind you has a card showing that is bigger than your paired card, don’t just raise without looking to your right and seeing what cards the players who limped in have showing. It is quite possible that a split pair of kings or even aces just limped in your pot and is ready to exploit your obvious lower pair hand. This information cannot be overstated or over read, go back and reread this paragraph and memorize it if necessary.

Mid Pairs: I classify these pairs as (7’s – 10’s), and although some players will play these particular cards fast and furious by ramming and jamming, I’m inclined to remind beginner players to just tread lightly with these type starting cards, unless your kicker is an Ace or a King, then you definitely should stick around in most games. Of course, besides the quality of your kicker, whether your middle pair is split or hidden is a factor in deciding how, or whether to continue playing the hand, and certainly, whether or not your cards are all LIVE! I would not continue, even with a hidden pair of 7’s if I saw a seven face-up in someone else’s hand. The odds for hitting your one-outer are quite high and not getting involved in this battle might be a chip saving move on your part. Just remember, although stud is considerably slower than hold em’, a new hand will be dealt in just a matter of minutes. You can complain like others about the boredom associated with playing stud, or when you are not in a hand, why not continue to watch the play at the table and gather more information on your opponents (what cards did they start with, what kind of cards do they raise with, who likes to chase, who likes to check raise). Collecting information on your opponents is the only way to gain the edge you need to be successful.

One more middle pair observation: If you are raised by an apparent higher pair, unless you have a perfect read on your opponent or are feeling lucky, let the hand go. Exceptions are again when you have the hidden pair, a huge kicker, and all your cards are live.

Small Pairs: If you thought the middle pairs might cause you some grief, the small pairs have a way of ruining your entire session, unless of course you remember the golden rule: You must have a very high kicker to play hands with small and middle pairs that are split or hidden. Of course, you may find yourself in late position with a hidden small pair, lousy kicker and no fear of a raise, so you occasionally might see another card (and hopefully you will make the trips).

When you do play a small (hidden) pair with a very large kicker, most opponents will put you on a big pair (sensing you have a split pair with the up card) if you raise the pot. When your 4th street card then pairs your doorcard (the 3rd street card), they will certainly put you on big trips, so be ready for a fast exodus of players. Should you receive a matching suit on 4th street to your doorcard, that also happens to match your hidden pair (giving you trips), they may be inclined to think flush in your hand, along with big pair only, and will be surprised when you show the hand at showdown.

In part II of this lesson, I will be discussing more difficult starting hands on 3rd street, in particular three to a straight and a flush, one gapper straight starting draws, quality overcards and more.

 

Lesson # 2 – Starting Hands (3rd Street) 7 Card Stud (Hi)

Part II

In part I, I talked about playing the best starting hands (rolled up trips being the best), high pairs, medium pairs and low pairs. In part II, I will tell you how to play a three-card straight, a three-card flush, a three-card straight flush, straights with gaps and a three card hand containing overcards. And finally, I will give you some tips related to playing at a shorthanded table.

One thing I did forget to mention was the bring-in bet. If you have the lowest card up on third-street, you have a forced bring-in bet to make. You can make the minimum bet or have the option to complete the bet (full bet). The bring-in player is determined by the lowest card showing face up, and the two of clubs would represent the lowest card a player may catch. If there were two other 2’s showing, instead of the two of clubs, it is determined in alphabetical order (2c, 2d, 2h, 2s), on up.

For beginners, I am encouraging you to ONLY play three to a straight, or to three to a flush hand, when you have at least two overcards included in your starting hand group. This will allow you to make pairs that could potentially win the hand in case your straight or flush never develops. Caution: For now, forget straights and flushes with small starting cards, as they are trouble hands with limited possibilities. Starting hands like 34-5 rainbow and 3c6c-9c are not worth investing chips in and should be avoided. You want to play straights like TJ-Q and flushes like AsJs-7s, because if you don’t catch a continuing card, you may pair up and win the pot anyway.

Three Straights – There is a “Rule of Eight” theory that says you should play straights down to hands that include as “8.” If you do, you will lose quite a bit of money. I suggest anything that includes starting with a “9” is more acceptable and manageable for beginners. Remember, the more overcards the better, so TJQ is much more desirable.

The golden rule for the play of a three straight is the “Rule of Two (2) Points*,” and I support it wholeheartedly: When you start with a three straight you need certain cards to continue your hand. The cards extending your hand on the immediate top and bottom of your three straight are referred to as Primary Cards, and the cards that continue the straight past four in a row, are considered Secondary Cards. You need both to make a straight, so this is what the rule of two points has you do: Assign one point to all primary cards you need, and ½ point to all secondary cards you need to complete your straight. You do this on third-street when you see everyone’s up card. Example: You start with TJ-Q and look around at the entire table and see one king, one nine and one eight face up. The king and nine get assigned one point each and the eight a ½ point. That’s 2 ½ total points and so the hand is not really that playable for the straight possibility. You need to have the point total add up to two points or less to play this hand. Note: There is the exception when you have a hand like TJ-Q and all your cards are totally live, you then can play this hand for the possibility to make high pairs. An example of a playable straight draw hand would be: You start with 9T-J and see one queen, and one seven on the board, face up. That would be 1 ½ points and you should continue with this straight draw.

Should you be faced with a raise before you are yet to act, you must consider your point total, your overcards, the pot odds and the size of the up card of the raiser, before you decide to continue in the hand. All of your cards must be LIVE to stay in the hand, otherwise, get out now. In most cases, it might prove safer and cheaper to just let the raiser have the pot, and not try to run him/her down.

Three-Flushes – When you consider whether to play a three-flush, there are many things to consider. First and foremost, is your three-flush a quality three-flush? A quality three-flush must contain at least one overcard and preferably two or even three. If it is only one, it should be the ace or king. Then, armed with the knowledge of knowing there are just thirteen cards to a suit, counting your flush cards on the board is a necessity that allows you to proceed on any flush draw. As you look around the board on third-street, you immediately count any cards in your suit that are exposed. If there are more than three other cards in your suit exposed (four), you realize there are only six remaining in the deck and you would need to draw two of the remaining six suited cards you are seeking. Your odds have been reduced considerably and this is not a playable hand. Even with three suited cards exposed, I tend to give up seeking a flush and continuing the hand, unless my starting hand contains an ace and a king. That way I can pair up and win the hand or still get lucky and catch some running suited cards. As you gain experience, you may decide to play non-quality three flushes from late position, but never if a raise is made before the action gets to you. However, you still have to garner enough skills to play these marginal hands, so for now; let’s play quality-starting hands only!

Three to Straight-Flush - Now that you mind is muddled with all of the complications of playing a three straight and/or a three flush, we can really go crazy examining how to play a three-card straight-flush. We have to consider the Rule of Two Points, overcards, how many of your suit is out on third-street.

If your three to a straight-flush contains big cards (TJ-Q suited), you have many ways to win this hand. You can catch a straight, a flush, a straight-flush, or by pairing your high cards. So if you find yourself in late position with three or four limpers in the pot, and your big cards are live, you might want to raise. If your big cards are not live, however, raising might not be the best option.
If your three to a straight-flush contains small cards (67-8 suited), your hand
is not nearly as strong as you think. If you are in early position and there are
big overcards on the board, and the players with the overcards are aggressive,
you will likely be facing a raise on third-street. This is a very tenuous position to be in and should be avoided. It is unlikely that you will win the hand by making pairs because
your pairs would be small. If you were to make a straight, it would be a small straight and we all know how small straights lose to bigger straights. You do have a chance of making a big flush by catching high cards in your suit, so that is promising, and there is enough value here to proceed, but only with caution. You will want to fold this hand to a
raise and do not even consider raising yourself.

One final note on three-straight, three-flush and three-straight flushes: To make these hands profitable you must have proper pot odds to play them. You want lots of players and little raising. The worst scenario is to play anybody heads up, as they will be huge favorites with any big pairs. So, use your raises sparingly with these type hands and wait until you have made the hand and then lower the boom.

Straight With Gaps – These are draws missing a card or cards in the straight sequence. TJ-K would be an example of a one-gapper; 9T-K would be an example of a two-gapper. A two gapper should only be played for its overcard value, and is the next topic to be discussed. The most important consideration you should make would be: Is your gap card totally LIVE? If not, you are not doing yourself a favor continuing this hand unless you start with a hand like AJ-K, where your overcards may pair up and win the pot. The Rule of Two Points still applies and with the example given (TJ-K), notice that there is one primary card (Q), and two secondary cards (A) and (9). So common sense would dictate that your chances of making a straight are greatly diminished if again the board cards add up to more than two points. Should you be so lucky to catch your Gap card on fourth-street, proceed as you would with any straight draw and good luck finishing the straight.
Overcards – The first rule for playing with just overcards is that they play best against fewer opponents. When you are holding nothing more than overcards, the situation has to be correct to play these hands further. I would recommend that if you have three overcards to the entire board, you could proceed by all means against no more than three players. If you have two overcards higher than the board, I suggest you limit proceeding in the hand with only one or two players. In other words, consider the amount of opponents who have voluntarily entered the hand and the fact that they are more likely to have starting pairs already, so proceed with caution.
Shorthanded – For this discussion, four or less opponents is considered playing shorthanded, and when you find yourself in these situations, put extra value on any pair you have and less value on any flush or straight draw you pick up. The pot odds will never be there for you, so rule them out quickly and save some chips.

Expect your opponents to also follow your lead and abandon draws early and push pairs hard right from the start. Aggressive players found at full tables will become even more aggressive shorthanded and play back at you if you attempt an ante steal raise. One thing you can count on is that all the tight players will quickly depart your table whenever the table becomes shorthanded. The game becomes faster, more aggressive and they don’t like posting antes more often.

* Roy West is the first person that I know that introduced this concept. His 7 Stud Hi (42 Lessons) is the best introductory 7 Stud book you could invest in. I’ve recommended it to 100’s and not one person has even regretted the purchase.
Lesson 3 will cover fourth-street and what you want to be aware of as you build the pot, eliminate opponents, or set a trap.

 

Lesson. # 3 – Fourth Street Strategy - 7 Card Stud (Hi)

Up until this point your decision making process has been relatively easy on whether to proceed or muck your hand, but on fourth street the action will pick up and define how many players actually may have improved their hands. If their fourth card shows an overcard to your high pair, or a card that may improve their flush or straight draw, you must consider what you will need to beat your opponent and as always, consider how live your cards remain. If you still believe your high pair is still the best hand, continue to push it again. Your bet is an attempt to further eliminate players and if anyone still remains in the hand with a smaller pair, you have achieved your goal. Note: If your pair is not the highest pair, and you have overcards that are higher than your opponent’s pair, then continuing to play is a correct decision.

Some quick tips:

- Hidden pairs (pair made with first two hole cards) are much better than split pairs (one part of pair in the hole, one part face up). The reason is that when you make trips with your hidden pair none of your opponents will know. You now have hidden trips; one the most powerful hands you can have on fourth-street. Conversely, with split pairs, when you pair the board, everyone can see the visible strength of your hand and will conclude the overall greater strength of it based on your continuation of play after the bring in. Myself, I would prefer to have a hidden pair of sevens with a jack face up, than having a split pair of jacks, with a jack and a seven under. I find more value in my opponents thinking I have a pair of jacks and not knowing when I make trips or two pair.

- Pairing the door card (the third card, first card face up, is called your door card) and when any player pairs this card on fourth, fifth or sixth-street, it is a good indication that they may have made trips. Don’t always assume they did, but be wary of a sudden change in betting style or continuance in the hand. Note: If anyone pairs their doorcard on fourth-street, anyone remaining in the hand can double the betting limits.

- Chasing pairs on the board that are higher than yours is costly and should be avoided unless you have overcards to your opponent’s pair, and of course, all your cards a live, or your pair is hidden.

- Your must show respect for your opponent’s overcards as well. Let’s say you start with split jacks and you have not improved on fourth-street. One of your opponents shows an ace and a king up, but you do not think that they have made a pair with either, you are still not in a great situation to profit from this hand and if their cards seem to be live, you might be in trouble so proceed with caution.

- When you suspect your opponent is now holding two pair and you only have one pair, it is okay to continue if your cards are live and your pair is higher than both of your opponent’s pairs. If not, folding would be an option worthy of consideration.
Playing two pair is the hand that can cause you the most difficulty and grief if not played correctly and playing middle value hands correctly can make the difference in a winning or losing session. Anyone can play the huge hands correctly, so it’s imperative you also acquire the skills to play these medium value hands with equally adept maneuverability and aggressiveness. If you have two pair on fourth-street and no one is showing a pair higher than yours, you must bet out to protect your hand. You must reduce the number of competitors thereby improving your chance of winning the hand. If you bet and everyone folds, just scoop the pot and be glad they held up.

Here are some other important things to remember about playing two pair on fourth-street:

The key remains; you want to have live cards and overpairs. You need to have absolutely as many live cards as possible to improve or your hand will not hold up and others will outdraw you by the river. However, even if you don’t improve, holding an overpair will enable you to win more pots if your opponent also ends with two pair. You should also be aware that while playing at medium and low limit tables, you should not limp with two pair on fourth-street or you will not enjoy the outcome on seventh-street. You must protect your hand, and play your two pair hard. Having said all of the above about playing two pair, it should become abundantly clear that you would not want to be in many hands holding two small pair. These hands do not hold up to here and a person holding one higher pair on fourth-street is likely to wind up with two higher pairs than your two pair. Avoid these hands if at all possible.

When you start with a medium or small pair, you must always proceed with caution if your hand does not improve and you perceive your opponent to be on a bigger pair. In most cases you should not proceed and definitely not if the pot is raised. The only exception on fourth-street is when your cards are live and three of your four cards are of the same suit. In this case it may be correct to call an unraised pot.

If you start with a drawing hand (three to a straight or to a flush), and you did not improve on fourth-street, you can only continue if you have one or two overcards. If the pot is raised, don’t bother to call. If you are lucky enough on fourth-street to get a fourth flush card or fourth card in succession for your straight, you still have to keep an eye on any opponent with a pair showing. You are in excellent position to complete your drawing hand, but your opponent has a decent chance of making a full house. If you start with hands like T-J-Q and miss your card on fourth-street for the straight and miss pairing any card, you should consider folding unless given a free card to continue. Should you catch an inside straight draw after receiving your next card, use some discipline in deciding whether to continue drawing and paying a heavier price to play. If raised, abandon these inside draws for certain.

Lastly, continue to watch your opponents, attempt a semi-bluff or steal (by betting or raising) if you have position and think fourth-street cards did not help the limited amount of opponents remaining in the hand. You don’t have to have the best hand here, it may just look like the best hand to everyone left in the hand.

 

Lesson # 4 – 5th Street (Your Second Biggest Decision)

The first major decision you made was on third-street, and that was whether to continue in the hand and how to proceed. On fifth-street you face another critical crossroads decision. At this juncture the betting limits double in a fixed-limit game. Your opponents have either now made a hand or have an abundant number of draws/possibilities to complete their hands. So, if you make the decision to play past fifth-street, you must also be willing to stay committed until the end.

Having arrived on fifth-street with your trips, you may find yourself starring at your full house or quite possibly, four-of-a-kind. If either is the case, don’t tip your hand, call any bets in front of you and if you are first to act, of course bet. You should not attempt any fancy plays on fifth-street with a made hand, you don’t want to tip the strength of it or run anyone off that still has a strong drawing possibility. Check raising is another no-no at this juncture, so hold off on that possible maneuver until sixth-street. If the pot is raised and or re-raised before the betting gets to you, just smooth call. Let others get their money into the pot on this street and wait until sixth-street to lower the boom. They will be totally committed to the pot by then and will stay until the end with false hopes in beating you.
On the other hand, if your trips have not improved by fifth-street, you must protect your hand against draws and those holding paired cards higher than yours. Bet your hand, and raise others if they bet prior to you being able to act if you still feel your trips are the best hand on the board.

Arriving on fifth-street with two pair necessitates you having an over pair and live cards. You will often find yourself up against other two pair hands, and hopefully they are smaller pairs. There will be others holding two pair and if you don’t hold an over pair, you could be trouble.

If you arrive on fifth-street with one big pair and have not improved, you must evaluate the situation to merit continuing in the hand. Again, the same criteria you used on third-street applies: over cards and live cards. Note: With only one pair you would prefer to have less than three players remaining in the hand vying for the pot so that your big pair has a better chance of holding up. If one of your opponents appears to have made two pair, you can continue If your pair is higher than any other pair represented.

With drawing hands such as straights and flushes, you may have completed your hand by fifth-street or still need one more card. Continue to draw if your cards are still live, but in the case of flush draws, consider giving up the hand if you five cards in your suit have been exposed. Note: You may be up against other flushes as well, and if your highest card is lower than what you see represented on the board, you should also consider giving up the draw. This would apply to straights as well. If you are not drawing to the highest straight, wait to battle in another hand when you have what appears to be the best draw. Drawing for the second best hand can really burn a lot of chips.

If you make your flush or straight on fifth-street, it is unlikely not going to improve your hand (maybe slightly with a higher flush or straight), so you must bet your hand and protect it as much as you can. Any player with two pair that continues to draw may fill up and those beats can be expensive, so push your made hand hard and try to discourage them or make them pay a heavier price to draw against you.

One final note! When you find yourself on fifth-street with what appears to be the best hand and the best draw, play the hand very aggressively. If checked to you, bet. If the pot has been bet, raise. Try to narrow the field with your raise and this bet could also allow you to see the turn and river card at no additional cost, as you usually will be checked to on sixth-street if you raise on fifth-street. Should you improve your two pair, trips or drawing hand, bet again. If you miss, you have the option to make a semi-bluff bet and hope to win it outright, or you can check along and see the last card for free.

 

Lesson #5 (Sixth Street)

By the time you receive your sixth card, you most certainly should have a made hand or have an excellent draw at making top hand (if not, you’ve made a huge error in judgment in continuing in this hand). Holding a complete hand, continue to pound the pot (your opponents have also arrived on fifth-street) and are also now committed until the end of all betting rounds.

There are several categories of hands you may be holding at this juncture, and hopefully you won’t have the least desirable; a WEAK hand! A WEAK hand at this point can be described as “a hand that hasn’t improved.” Could be that your opponents have given you free cards (this would be a mistake on their part) and your starting top pair still looks to be the most dominant hand on the board, but has not improved. If you think you still have the best hand, get more chips into the pot and don’t ever give free cards and the opportunity for someone to run you down (catch up and beat your hand).
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You may have a hand that is a considerably better than the WEAK hand, and that would be a SOLID, better than average hand. It would include a flush, a straight, trips or two pair with one very high pair. If you have such a hand it is essential you have a read on your opponent’s hands and you must continue to build the pot. You need to exercise caution here if you feel your one or more of your opponents have what appear to be the makings of a better hand than you. In that case, try to get to the eventual showdown as cheap as possible. It is equally critical for you to continue analyzing the action shown between your opponents. If they are showing pairs and start a raising war, your SOLID hand may not be worthy of a third place finish. Knowing your opponents if a key factor in deciding whether to continue in this battle. Should you have four to a flush or straight, you must evaluate your position and against players displaying pairs. They have full house potential and in fact may have already made one, so you must be fairly certain that you are not drawing dead. If your opponent is also showing an apparent four flush or four straight, make sure your top cards are bigger so that if you both complete the hand, yours will hold up.

SUPERIOR hands would include a straight flush, four-of-a-kind, or a decent sized full house. While holding such a hand, you must try to figure how best to get as many chips in the pot as possible. If you hand is so scary that your opponents will fold to your bet, consider checking to give them a free card in hopes it will improve their holding, however, while never giving them top hand. This way you may be able to induce them to bet or at least call a bet from you on the river. Allowing opponents to “catch up” is only a tactical move when you have a SUPERIOR made hand, otherwise, give no free cards and continue to build your pot.
Keys to your success:

• Your third-street decision is crucial. Don’t proceed unless you have excellent starting cards.
• If not in the hand, practice remembering exposed cards. You cannot practice this skill enough.
• If your opponent who has been just calling gets a third suited card, look to see if it matches their doorcard suit. If it does, they probably have made their flush.
• If your opponent raises and their board does not show cards to indicate a flush or a straight, they probably have made two pair or trips are trying to win the pot outright, right then.
• Don’t talk yourself into continuing to sixth-street with false hopes (one more card and if I don’t make it I’ll fold). Save your bets if your hand is not that promising.
• Should you enter sixth-street it is highly unlikely you will fold (the pot will be offering good enough odds to play, even as an underdog).
• Remember, your sixth-street hand in all probability will be your seventh-street hand (they hardly ever improve).

 

Lesson # 6 (Seventh Street)

Throughout the hand you have been asked to observe the cards on the board, remember what cards have been mucked, and to continue play only if you had live cards. With all of the information you have gathered, you are now able to make a final decision (not a guess), on whether or not you have the best hand. This is an edge, an advantage you have worked very hard to establish, and while others may be guessing, you should have a more accurate assessment of your chances.

On seventh-street I would strongly suggest you continue to play straightforwardly and not to try and “trick” your opponents with a check-raise. Bet your hand if you feel it’s the best hand, and you will have callers with lesser hands who see the pot too big to pass on, or who may also suspect you could be bluffing. If you are not sure if you have the best hand but your hand is pretty good, then go ahead and call a bet and see if you do have the winner. You only have to win one in five attempts for this call to be profitable. Your call will also signal to your opponents that you cannot be bluffed, and it will enhance your ability to win more bets as the game proceeds.

On the other side of the coin, should you find yourself up against only “one” opponent, and you know that they will bluff quite often with a weak hand, you may choose to check and induce a bluff against your strong holding. Now you have trapped him/her and you can now raise to seal the deal.

Internet players have a definite disadvantage on seventh-street as compared to play at a live casino or card room, in that you will not be able to pick up on any TELLS when the final cards are dealt to your opponents. Here are some important tips for playing live:

• When the river card is being dealt, look at each opponent in succession and watch him or her as they look at their card. It is here where you will pick up on many tells.
• Look for any sign of disgust across their face
• Look for slumping shoulders
• Look to see if they become disinterested
• Look to see if they share their realization of a busted hand with a neighboring player
• Look to see if they gleefully show a close by friend or relative what they have
• Look to see if they glance slightly at their cards and then at their chips
• Look to see if they look at their hole cards (then up), then their hole cards (then up), more than a few times (they might be trying to figure out if they made the straight). If it was a flush or a full house, they only look once, as they are easy to distinguish.

Wrapping this entire stud series up, we can all agree that seven-stud (hi), while a game of live cards, still requires immense concentration of the board and your opponent’s actions throughout the entire hand to be successful! Although it is a relatively slow paced game compared to hold’em, it attracts players who thrive on playing their own hand, players who like to keep track of dead/live cards, and players who recognize when they have the best hand to exploit their opposition. Having now mastered, or at least improved your seven-stud ring game experience, I will next turn to an examination of tournament play with lesson #7.

 

Lesson #7 - 7 Stud Hi Tournament Play

There are four well-defined stages of any stud tournament (early, middle, late & final table), and you must be aware of table factors as you enter each phase. Once you play a few events, you will also become very aware of the pace associated with each stage. You will then notice that the action seems to slowdown at times, and then becomes very fast and aggressive as the tournament progresses into a new stage. This condition occurs as the betting limits and antes continue to rise and both large and small-stacked players begin to emerge. Player’s involvement will by influenced by: stack size; stage of the tournament; position in the hand; and the amount of time remaining in the round. We’ll take a look at these and other factors and conditions that will affect play.

EARLY PHASE

Most players will be playing rather conservatively when the tournament starts out, and you should take notice of how patient (and passive) they are playing. Generally only a few players will play a bit loose and tend to call many bets in order to see a fourth-street card. They will also have a tendency to raise a bit more than the hand you see them hold would seem to justify. At this beginning point, you should take advantage of tight play and steal a few more antes from time to time. When you do see early raises, tend to believe the bettor and give them credit for having a good starting hand. Again, being aware of your opponent’s starting cards is a critical part of your analysis during the opening of any hand. For example, if they raise with a low card (face up) on third-street, try to determine what kind of hand they possibly could be starting with. They more than likely hold a high hidden pair, three to a flush, or three to a straight. They seldom will be rolled up with trips, but don’t discount the trips when the card is low. A player should bet to protect their hand when the trips are low cards. Continue to look around the table, not only to see if your cards are still live, but to see if their cards are live as well.

Playing too many drawing hands in a stud tournament is a recipe for disaster and a huge mistake. If you do decide to remain in a pot with a flush or a straight draw, make sure you have overcards which will give you additional opportunities to win the hand. In my opinion, straights are pretty worthless and unless your cards are totally live and you have overcard-pairing potential. The best advice I can offer is to never draw for a straight, unless perfect conditions exist. Conversely, most successful players will play big pairs aggressively (especially on third-street). This aggressive style of play will thin the field and allow the person with the big pair to isolate on just a few callers, preferably with drawing hands which require lots of callers and that don’t hold up against big pairs. In fact, some big pairs don’t even need to improve to win the pot.

MIDDLE PHASE

As the tournament progresses, your stack size in relation to your opponent’s begins to be a significant factor. During this phase you will notice more players willing to gamble against short stacks. Notice that the quality of the hands (small and medium pairs) will be degraded from what they would normally play, as they try to apply pressure on those who only have enough chips for one or two more betting rounds. Please note one significant word of caution during this middle phase. If you enjoy a substantial chip lead, avoid draws that will certainly drain your stack.

As you continue in this middle phase, look to exploit the very tight and passive opponents, by semi-bluffing, betting with middle pair and of course ante stealing. If you find yourself short-stacked, it is not prudent to draw against anyone. Your best strategy would be to commit your chips when you pick up a large pair, split pair, or three overcards. If forced to play a drawing hand, try to have overcards. If average stacked, you must avoid playing those small pairs against stacks bigger than yours. An effective strategy would be to let others battle among themselves, thus reducing the field.

LATE PHASE

Here again the pace of action speeds up, as you will notice most players begin raising more than calling any action. You again should forcefully attempt to isolate players and get the hand heads up with your big pairs and continue to ante steal whenever possible. As in the middle phase, look for the tight players and exploit them with your aggressiveness.
You should be very aware that the stronger looking boards will win a majority of the hands as players with weaker holdings will not look to mix it up at the higher betting limits. Don’t be afraid to laydown a marginal hand if your opponent’s hand looks strong. Knowing a bit about them always aids in this decision process. Having said that, error on the side of caution if nearing the money spots of the event.

FINAL TABLE ANYONE

The first order of business is to assess your competitor’s ammunition (chip stacks) in front of them. Should you be the short-stack you will have to make a move immediately if the antes are quite high and you can’t last very much longer. Be willing to commit your chips (preferably first in), with a large holding, a pocket pair or even several high overcards. If you are medium-stacked, you can use a bit of patience as you allow others to battle and knock each other out (as you move up the money payout ladder). In a rare circumstance when you arrive at the final table and the ante’s are still relatively small, use all the patience you can to maintain your starting hand requirements, and when you do play, play it fast and as aggressively as you can.

As the table becomes shorter and shorter, ante stealing becomes an art form. Your board on third-street can and will dictate whether your opponent will battle you fiercely. If they do when you show an apparent strong board, understand that they might have a big hand themselves, and you might not want to continue if in fact you are weak. So be prepared to use the emergency brakes and if caught in a bluff or semi-bluff, back off and try again on the next hand. Against very aggressive opponents you want to be more selective as to when you take a stand. Should you pick up a big hand, let them fire away and trap them later in the hand, thus extracting many more chips than they would want to lose.

With heads up play at the end be prepared to raise and re-raise just about every hand. Unlike with more players vying for the pot, heads up players will have lesser holdings and small to medium pairs will command large pair betting habits. Once again, showing a strong board will allow you to steal and take down most pots early, so be alert and fire away and back at your opponent, you can’t crawl into a protective shell and just wait for the best cards in the deck…. Now is the time to gamble…

 

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